A link to photos on picasawebalbum:
https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/115159451836848718207/albums/6008271958341276977?authkey=CMWgn6LG-K2vmgE
Wednesday, April 30, 2014
Pacific Highway
Dear Pacific Highway (Highway 1),
I am writing to inform you that I will no longer be seeking your company for the remainder of my cycling trip to Cairns. Though you have offered me many scenic sightings (diamond python top on the list) and sent me off in the direction of many beautiful coastal side roads, you yourself are something else. I don't mean to be rude, but you are rather inconsistent. One moment you offer those cyclists traveling upon you a spacious shoulder, oftentimes even clear of debris such as trees, branches, and bushes. But as soon as one begins to rest in this offering, you take the shoulder away. At bridges. During passing lanes. And on curves, of all places! I can see you are trying. I traveled through many of your construction "improvement" zones. You are making valiant strides, yes! But it is not enough. You've had me praying for my life one too many times. And that blind, curving hill out of Coffs Harbour!? That was the worst! Did you see how close that truck came to me? You were right there, so I am sure you did. Despite all your coastal offerings and split highway upgrades, I no longer wish to be friends with you. I know you might try to protest and say, "But wait, I will be different in Queensland! I even have a new name!" I've heard only worse things about you as you wind your way north and so I have already made arrangements with your inland, mountainous cousins. Don't think big hills scare me, Pacific Highway, you have prepared me well. I wish you well and may you be kind to any future cyclists who dare to ride upon you.
Good day,
Kelsey M.
I am writing to inform you that I will no longer be seeking your company for the remainder of my cycling trip to Cairns. Though you have offered me many scenic sightings (diamond python top on the list) and sent me off in the direction of many beautiful coastal side roads, you yourself are something else. I don't mean to be rude, but you are rather inconsistent. One moment you offer those cyclists traveling upon you a spacious shoulder, oftentimes even clear of debris such as trees, branches, and bushes. But as soon as one begins to rest in this offering, you take the shoulder away. At bridges. During passing lanes. And on curves, of all places! I can see you are trying. I traveled through many of your construction "improvement" zones. You are making valiant strides, yes! But it is not enough. You've had me praying for my life one too many times. And that blind, curving hill out of Coffs Harbour!? That was the worst! Did you see how close that truck came to me? You were right there, so I am sure you did. Despite all your coastal offerings and split highway upgrades, I no longer wish to be friends with you. I know you might try to protest and say, "But wait, I will be different in Queensland! I even have a new name!" I've heard only worse things about you as you wind your way north and so I have already made arrangements with your inland, mountainous cousins. Don't think big hills scare me, Pacific Highway, you have prepared me well. I wish you well and may you be kind to any future cyclists who dare to ride upon you.
Good day,
Kelsey M.
good natured Australians
April 27th:
Thunderstorms.
Thunderstorms.
This is new. Thunder, lightning, hail, heavy rain. All the familiar friends of a thunderstorm.
I've typically been exceptionally spoiled by the sun gods on cycling and bushwalking ventures. For example: seven weeks cycling Tasmania-2 days rain. Three weeks hiking North Cascade Mountains in WA- 1 day rain. One week hiking west coast Vancouver Island- 20 minutes rain. All places known for their more than fair share of the wet mind you.
so I wonder, "what does one do in a day of predicted scattered t-storms?"
Wait for a gap, I suppose.
But funnily enough, of all mornings to have to wait out a storm, guess where I am? The garage of a retirement village abode in Hallidays Point, NSW.
Yes, I stopped for a late lunch at a picnic/river fishing spot north of Forster- Tuncurry and an older gentlemen, Steve, came up to me to ask many questions. I was rather heat/traffic overwhelmed and food underwhelmed at that moment, so after a minute he let me go on my resting/picnicking way. However, as I went to leave he said, "where do you think yall get to now?" Tapping his watch. "Ya won't get to Crowdy Bay national park like you wanted, it's too late!" He went on to tell me of all the caravan parks up ahead off the main road. "Yea, you should go there. If you go to this one, ya could swing round our place for a nice dinner. Or you could sleep at our place. In the garage. Family is in town, so we'd have no other place for ya. Or do ya prefer caravan parks?"
I'd sleep in a garage, no problem. So I rode the fifteen k's to the 'village'. Whereupon I received a shower, cakes, tea, dinner, rock melon and ice cream, and delightful company in Steve, Eleanor, their son Brian and his wife, Cheryl, plus two sons. Delightful company by all means. And Steve is an amazing photographer and had a box full of Australian landscape shots from eight continuous years traveling around the country with Eleanor. I kept getting travelers glee then envy at all the beautiful places here. Had to keep laughing and reminding myself, 'oh, I am traveling through incredible places right now!'
So I wait out the storm. Repack my bags extra waterproofingly well. And hope for shelter as needed when I hit the road.
Central NSW
April 23rd.
Continuously flat roads! Quiet, scenic byways! Small passenger ferries across rivers and bays! Walking tracks that are old fire tracks with no cars allowed! Sunny days! Calm, empty beaches for lunchtime swims! And the wonder and beauty of Myall Lakes National Park! Congratulations, you are now one of my favourite cycling destinations. Today was a 10/10 in the cycle touring world…and top it off with a walk/bike/boat in only campsite right on Myall Lake with three!!! azure kingfishers blitzing around as I made my dinner by the lake's edge…! You know how to make this cyclist very pleased indeed. Given that this is only day two of the 2nd leg of my trip to Cairns, you have set quite high standards for the remainder of your state.
Thank you and sincerely,
Kelsey M.
from the congo to myall lakes national park
Oh dear. Tis quite difficult to keep blog updated on this cycle trip. Hard to think of what to say about 2 weeks ago when I have trouble remembering what happened yesterday. Here is a little photo journey through the last couple weeks.
Depot Beach. A suitable rest place for a day after leaving Congo. |
Took a side road off highway called "monkey mountain" which was disconcerting at first. But luckily the climb was not so bad and the road was empty! |
After a few more days riding, I found Pip! An old-time Otesha friend. And then in Sydney, Celine! Another Otesha friend: |
The Gibber Trail in Myall Lakes Ntl Park |
A most friendly bush turkey at Shelley Beach Camp |
Myall Lake |
Friday, April 11, 2014
Pop Quiz (Bairnsdale, Victoria to Congo, New South Wales in 7 days)
A pop quiz for you.
1) If you are in Melbourne and your goal destination is Cairns, and you have from April 5 till June 8 to get there,
would you:
a) catch trains up eastern coast, perhaps hopping on and off at popular destinations along the way
b) fly directly to Cairns after spending more time in Melbourne with friends
c) hitchhike, much to a big frown on your mother's face
d) ride your bike!
If you are restless for lots of movement, adventure, and challenge, combined with a deep love for wild places and cycling, you probably chose d! Like me!
2) Having chosen to ride to Cairns, gathered up the same bike you rode around OZ on 5 years ago, borrowed panniers from friends, and had a box full of pivotal bike gear odds and ends sent from home... for the first leg of your journey (to Sydney),
would you:
a) ride the whole way along the coast highway at a leisurely pace
b) ride up through the highlands via Victoria's "best kept secret," the Barry Way, for remote mountains, steep dirt road climbs, and views of the Snowy River and THEN cut to the coast
c) go inland via a route you've already done
B? Oh good, me too.
3) What is your preferred reward waiting to greet you on top of a big, long, tough hill climb:
a) a group of women just finishing a yoga retreat smiling, clapping, and cheering, "Hooray! Wow! Good work! You made it!"
b) Two yellow-tailed black cockatoos low in the trees RIGHT by the road. Screeching and flying by as your ride past.
c) One lone grey kangaroo. Sitting. Watching. Waiting.
d) A family of wallabies
e) Dirt road changing into paved road
f) A magnificent, winding downhill decent where the wind rushes against your face and you don't have to pedal once in 10 minutes
g) "Who needs a reward? I love the uphill part!"
4) Upon waking early, early in the morning on day five of your trip, in your tent at Jacob's River campsite, which would you prefer to find on your tent:
a) Ants. Medium sized. Red.
b) Spiders. Several. Small. Venomous-ness unknown.
c) This:
A goat moth (?) |
d) all of the above
5) Which are the most common moods experienced during a typical day of bicycle touring:
a) grumpy, exhausted, exhilarated, awed, grateful
b) bored, restless, apathetic
c) silly, tired, hungry, humble, proud
d) a and c
6) In a week of backcountry / small village camping, how many nights out of 7 would you expect to be offered and served dinner and or warm drinks/cakes:
a) zero. you smell, your stuff's exploded everywhere. nobody is coming near you.
b) 1-2
c) 3-4
d) 5-6
e) all 7! people love you!
Well, you might EXPECT zero, and be prepared for such, but never underestimate the friendliness of strangers. Lucky for your belly, unluckily for the weight of your panniers, the answer is D! (Thank you Jampal and Siba-ites, Robin and Gerald, Helen and Pat, Gillian and (?I'm sorry I forgot your name), Helen, Peter and Sue, and Paula and Jock!)
Final question!
7) Bicycle touring is a most fulfilling way to travel:
a) True!
b) False
Thank you for your quiz time. You have now earned a rest day!
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