Gayndah to Biloela

Biloela. 

1044pm.  Past my cycling bedtime by any means.  But i had an afternoon nap so deep that I woke thinking it was morning.  

Biloela means sulfur crested cockatoo.  Sulfur crested cockatoo in the language of the people who once lived here.  Before the land was cleared. People I rarely see. My favorite Australian bird from my first trip here. Still a favorite.  White under belly. Loud screech. A reminder, always, of the light. 

Be, my beloved friend and outback cycle touring superstar, says what someone once said to her,  "when you're  at your end, ready to give up, so over it, that's when you know the adventure's just getting started. "

John, my best bellingham botanist friend, writes and says of solo, adventure travel, "There are those days when you say to yourself, "What am I doing this for?  Why am making myself suffer like this?"  But then the next day or perhaps even not until the next week a stranger will show you such wonderful kindness and love.  Or you experience an amazing adventure that you couldn't even have contemplated in more comfortable environs. And you'll say to yourself, "Perhaps this is why." "

Back track four days ago and I was ready to chuck my bike on the train. Say this is too crazy. No thank you. Remote Queensland go away. 

But in comes the botanist with his encouraging email at just the right time.  In roll two French cyclists on a tandem recumbent bicycle who pull up next to me at a picnic bench.  Eating multiple sandwiches, we go over and over the roads on the maps. "There is no good way to go!" We all exclaim, laughing.  And, "no wonder we see no other bicycle tourists in this part of Queensland."  

I ask Be how much water she carried for 250km stretches with no towns, running rivers, or homes. 

And in come Rick and Linda.  At a rest stop I'm camped at and they are only stopping for a cup of cocoa on their way home. Would I like one?  Yes!  They live in Biloela, the next town, would I like to stay with them when I pass through? Yes!  Two people. Quiet over cocoa, opening their home and hearts to me over two days. Two days full of rest and "can I help with dinner?" "No, you just sit down, let yourself be pampered for once, Kelsey."  Two days full of local coal mine tours and views, an eisteddfod, soup sandwiches porridge.  Two days of laughter and stories and an ease of us all doing our own thing.  "Perhaps this is why." 

Yes. However far I've ridden. However many bush flies I've swatted at and cursed.  All the fears risen for close looking at.  All the pulling in and hiding inside myself from people I love most.  All the quiet nights tucked in my tent beneath stars and sky. This is one why. Because of the love people pour into my heart by sharing their most beautiful, ordinary lives.